By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Philadelphia is famous for its cheesesteak sandwiches.

Yet, if you’ve ever been to the city’s Reading Terminal Market on Arch Street in Center City (a favorite haunt when I was in paralegal school), you’ve probably also seen the long lines in front of Tommy DiNic’s. (If you know, you know.)

The star of this iconic sandwich counter, which has been drawing crowds since it opened in1977, is a succulent, slow-roasted Italian roast pork sandwich topped with sharp provolone and drippy, garlicky braised broccoli rabe (also known rapini). It’s a decidedly messy nosh as the ingredients can, and probably will, spill out as you eat it.

As tough as it is for a Pittsburgh girl to fall in love with something from Philly (my husband excluded), I have to admit it’s pretty incredible. I get the signature sandwich every time I’m in town, and never regret it.

This sub recipe (or should we say hoagie?) from America’s Test Kitchen is a riff on that storied sandwich served on a sesame-seeded Sarcone’s Bakery roll. Spicy Italian sausage stands in for the thinly sliced roasted pork that is a three-day process at DiNic’s. It also includes savory, tender slices of portobello mushrooms cooked with fennel, fresh rosemary and a touch of soy sauce. Shredded provolone goes right into the pan with the meat and veggies for a melty, we’re-all-friends finish.

Like DiNic’s, this recipe spotlights broccoli rabe. It’s a cruciferous green that looks like leafy broccoli, but as a member of the Brassicaceae family, is actually more closely related to the turnip. Its flavor is more bitter than broccoli, and the greens can also be fibrous, but the two veggies are interchangeable in this recipe. I used long, tender stalks of Broccolini instead of broccoli rabe, which I couldn’t find in my local grocery store.

Don’t skimp on the pickled red cherry hot peppers as a final flourish. They’re only mildly spicy, and you can’t beat that extra kick of flavor.

I used 6-inch (Mancini’s) sausage rolls instead of 8-inch sub rolls, so I had enough filling for five sandwiches. Be sure to toast the bread until it’s quite brown and crispy. Otherwise the filling could turn the sandwich into a (still delicious) soggy mess.

Wrapped in aluminum foil and reheated in a 350-degree oven for a few minutes, any leftovers make a great lunch the next day.

Philly-style Sausage and Broccoli Rabe Subs

PG tested

• 4 8-inch Italian sub rolls
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin oil, divided
• 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
• 1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces
• 1/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon salt, divided
• 8 ounces hot Italian sausage
• 1 pound portobello mushroom caps, wiped clean, and sliced 1/4 -inch thick
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, cracked
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 4 ounces shredded sharp provolone cheese
• 2 tablespoons chopped or slice jarred hot cherry peppers, optional

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 450 degrees.

If needed, slice rolls to make them easier to open (without slicing all the way through). Use spoon or your fingers to scraped inside of rolls and remove all but 1/4 i nch of interior crumb; discard removed crumb or use to make bread crumbs or croutons. Set aside while you prepare filling.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil and sliced garlic in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until garlic is light golden brown, 3-5 minutes.

Add broccoli rabe and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 4-6 minutes. Transfer to bowl and cover to keep warm.

Heat 1 teaspoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add sausage and cook, breaking up meat into small pieces with wooden spoon, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to fat left in skillet and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their liquid, 3-5 minutes.

Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are well browned, 5-7 minutes. Reduce heat to low.

Clear center of skillet and add remaining 2 teaspoons oil, fennel seeds and rosemary. Stir in soy sauce and cooked sausage, then stir in cheese until melted. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

Arrange reserved rolls on baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

Divide mushroom and broccoli rabe mixture evenly among rolls. Top with cherry peppers, if using, and serve.

Serves 4.

— adapted from “Mostly Meatless” by America’s Test Kitchen

©2025 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

The Oakland County road commission will decide on Monday whether to build a new $45 million administration building after months of delays and pressure from the county commission — or to renovate a 58-year-old building on the county’s campus for $55 million.

Last week, commissioners Eric McPherson and Jim Esshaki learned what it would take to renovate the county’s executive building and whether it could house Beverly Hills-based road commission employees close to those on the county campus in Waterford Township.

Architect Jane Graham of the engineering firm Hubbell Roth & Clark told commissioners that a renovation would neither accomplish goals of housing all staff in one place. She toured the building and was able to get some plans from previous renovations for her recommendations.

She said the 58-year-old executive building was last renovated in 2006 and was evaluated in 2022 by a county contractor.

While much of the executive building is in very nice condition, she said, its electrical and mechanical systems are old. Some wiring is nearly 60 years old while heating and cooling systems are close to 20 years old.

Contractors did “a heck of a job” replacing executive building equipment in 2006, she said, “but these things will wear out over time.”

The biggest obstacle to renovating the executive building are the elevators, which cannot be used to move large-format printers needed by the road commission.

Renovating the executive building at 2100 Pontiac Lake Road in Waterford Township also won’t accomplish the road commission’s goals for increased space or to bring employees together in one place, she said.

The cost to renovate would be close to $55 million, she said, more than the cost for a new building.

And dropping the existing plan for a new building would incur substantial costs as well, she said, adding to the price tag for renovating the executive building.

Graham’s report shows the road commission has already spent more than $3.5 million for engineering, site preparation and other work at 2420 Pontiac Lake Road in Waterford Township. There is also nearly $4.3 million more in expenses that have not yet been billed, and $2 million for a four-month construction delay.

The road commission could also be on the hook for millions more, should the contractor, Frank Rewold & Sons, or subcontractors sue for breach of contract.

McPherson and Esshaki asked few questions before agreeing to schedule a special meeting to decide which option to pursue before the deadline for a second delay expires on the same day.

Construction for the new building was put on hold in February at the request of County Commission Chairman Dave Woodward. He asked road commissioners to consider renovating the executive building because it will be vacant in two years when county officials move to Pontiac.

Woodward suggested then that the executive building could also be used by county sheriff’s deputies, dispatchers and homeland security as an emergency response center.

Sheriff Michael Bouchard said past discussions fizzled about renovating an existing building or constructing a new one so dispatchers, deputies, the road commission’s traffic center and the county’s homeland security could share offices.

“Our current dispatch center and emergency operations center don’t meet any federal guidelines,” he said. “Quite frankly, they’re in a terrible building. It was built in the 1940s and has been retrofitted so many times you can’t count and literally has rats the size of small dogs.”

The Federal Emergency Management Agency sets standards for emergency operations centers. https://www.fema.gov/emergency-managers/national-preparedness/frameworks/response

He said road commission officials were open to creating a shared space, but FEMA’s standards are very expensive to meet.

“It doesn’t make sense, in my opinion, for three different county entities to each build their own. So I offered to have (an emergency operations center) for all three together. The technology we have is state-of-the-art but the building it’s in is not and it doesn’t meet any standards for an emergency operations center,” Bouchard said, adding that the current location wouldn’t survive a major disaster, something that is essential for deputies, dispatchers and homeland security officials during a crisis.

EOB Assessment

A proper emergency center, Bouchard said, could withstand any extreme weather, including a tornado, so personnel can coordinate disaster response efforts throughout the county.

No part of the county’s executive building, including the basement meets disaster-resistant standards, Bouchard said,

Bouchard said he didn’t think plans for either the road commission’s proposed administration building or the water resources commission’s proposed $63 building met FEMA standards.

“I would love to talk to anyone about co-locating and sharing the costs and planning,” he said.

The road commission’s new building plan doesn’t include a FEMA-level emergency operations space, according to spokesman Craig Bryson.

The road commission’s special meeting is 1:30 p.m. Monday, June 23, at 31001 Lahser Road in Beverly Hills.

People who can’t attend in person but want to listen to the discussion can call (810) 337-8118 and use the meeting ID: 618 693 917#. People with hearing or speech disabilities who want to join the meeting should call 711. Road commission officials as attendees who wish to speak during public comment to fill out an online form at http://rcocweb.org/AgendaCenter.

By TERRY TANG

Chef Phila Lorn was not necessarily aiming for “quote-unquote authentic” Cambodian food when he opened Mawn in his native Philadelphia two years ago. So when he approached some Cambodian teen patrons, he braced himself for questioning.

“Someone’s going to say something like, ‘That’s not how my mom makes her oxtail soup,’” Lorn said. “So I walk up to the table. I’m like, ‘How is everything?’ And the kid looks up to me and he goes, ‘It doesn’t even matter, dude. So glad you’re here.’”

It was at that moment that Lorn realized Mawn — the phonetic spelling of the Khmer word for “chicken” — was more than a noodle shop. It meant representation.

In June, he will be representing his dual cultures — Cambodian and Philly — at his first James Beard Awards, as a nominee for Best Emerging Chef. In the food world, it’s akin to getting nominated for the Academy Awards.

Cambodian restaurants may not be as commonplace in the U.S. as Chinese takeout or sushi spots. And Cambodian food is often lazily lumped in with the food of its Southeast Asian neighbors, despite its own distinctness. But in recent years, enterprising Cambodian American chefs have come into their own, introducing traditional dishes or putting their own twist on them.

Many of them were raised in families who fled the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror, which began 50 years ago and killed about 1.7 million people. Since then, the Cambodian community in the U.S. has grown and set down roots.

Through food, these chefs are putting the attention back on Cambodian heritage and culture, rather than that traumatic history.

Dr. Leakhena Nou, a sociology professor at California State University, Long Beach who has studied social anxiety among post-Khmer Rouge generations, says the Cambodian diaspora is often seen by others too narrowly through the lens of victimhood. In 2022, she publicly opposed California legislation that focused only on genocide for a K-12 curriculum on Cambodian culture.

“It’s a part of their history so they shouldn’t run away from it but at the same time they should force others to understand that that’s not the only part of their heritage, their historical identity,” she said.

What is Cambodian cuisine?

Cambodian food has sometimes been hastily labeled as a mild mix of Thai and Vietnamese with some Chinese and Indian influence. But, it has its own native spices and flavors that have been used throughout Southeast Asia. Khmer food emphasizes seafood and meats, vegetables, noodles, rice and fermentation. Salty and sour are prevalent tastes, Nou says.

“It’s actually a very healthy diet for the most part in terms of fresh vegetables. Cambodians love to eat fresh vegetables dipped with some sauce,” Nou said.

Signature dishes include amok, a fish curry; lok lak, stir-fried marinated beef; and samlar koko, a soup made using seasonal produce. Nou recalls her father making it with pork bone broth, fish, fresh coconut milk, lemongrass, vegetables and even wildflowers.

Cambodian migration to the U.S.

It was a half-century ago, on April 15, 1975, that the communist Khmer Rouge took over Cambodia. For the next four years, an estimated one-quarter of the population was wiped out due to starvation, execution and illness.

Refugees came in waves to the U.S. in the 1970s and 1980s. Most took on low-level entry jobs with few language barriers, Nou said. These included manufacturing, meatpacking and agricultural labor. Many worked in Chinese restaurants and doughnut shops.

The U.S. Cambodian population has jumped 50% in the last 20 years to an estimated 360,000 people, according to the Census 2023 American Community Survey.

Cooking Cambodian American

Lorn’s family settled in Philadelphia in 1985. The only child born in the U.S., he was named after the city (but pronounced pee-LAH’). Like a lot of Asian American kids, Lorn was “the smelly kid” teased for not-American food in his lunch. But, he said, defending his lunchbox made him stronger. And he got the last laugh.

“It’s cool now to be 38 and have that same lunchbox (food) but on plates and we’re selling it for $50 a plate,” said Lorn, who opened Mawn with wife Rachel after they both had worked at other restaurants.

Indeed, besides popular noodle soups, Mawn has plates like the $60 steak and prohok, a 20-ounce ribeye with Cambodian chimichurri. Prohok is Cambodian fermented fish paste. Lorn’s version has lime juice, kulantro, Thai eggplants and roasted mudfish.

It sounds unappetizing, Lorn admits, “but everyone who takes a piece of rare steak, dips and eats it is just like, ‘OK, so let me know more about this food.’”

May, which is Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month and when Cambodia conducts a Day of Remembrance, is also when Long Beach has Cambodian Restaurant Week. The city is home to the largest concentration of Cambodians outside of Cambodia.

Chad Phuong, operator of Battambong BBQ pop-up, was a participant.

Phuong came to Long Beach as a child after fleeing the Khmer Rouge, which murdered his father. After high school, he worked at a Texas slaughterhouse and learned about cutting meats and barbecue. In 2020, he pivoted from working in the medical field to grilling.

Known as “Cambodian Cowboy,” he has been profiled locally and nationally for brisket, ribs and other meats using a dry rub with Cambodian Kampot pepper, “one of the most expensive black peppers in the world.” There’s also sausage with fermented rice and sides like coconut corn.

The pitmaster recently started mentoring younger vendors. Contributing to the community feels like building a legacy.

“It just gives me a lot of courage to present my food,” Phuong said. “We don’t need to talk about the past or the trauma. Yes, it happened, but we’re moving on. We want something better.”

More Cambodian-run establishments have flourished. In 2023, Lowell, Massachusetts, mayor Sokhary Chau, the country’s first Cambodian American mayor, awarded a citation to Red Rose restaurant for being a Beard semifinalist. This year, Koffeteria bakery in Houston, Sophon restaurant in Seattle and chef Nite Yun of San Francisco’s Lunette Cambodia earned semifinalist nods.

Lorn, an admirer of San Francisco’s Yun, says he still feels imposter syndrome.

“I feel like I’m more Ray Liotta than Nite Yun,” said Lorn. “Whether we win or not, to me, honestly, I won already.”

Meanwhile, he is preparing to open a Southeast Asian oyster bar called Sao. It’s not intended to be Cambodian, just a reflection of him.

“I don’t want to be pigeonholed,” Lorn said. “And it’s not me turning from my people. It’s just me keeping it real for my people.”

Ditalini, that petite tube-shaped pasta (sometimes referred to as “macaroni salad pasta”), is a welcome addition to simple soups. I like to team it with peas, onion, and celery. Diced pancetta comes to the party too, adding an appealing meaty flavor profile with a hint of sweetness. Fresh mint and parsley, added just before serving, add a delightful brightness to the mix.

Pasta and Pea Soup

Yield: 4 to 5 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 stalks of celery, chopped

4 ounces diced pancetta

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 cups (32 ounces) chicken broth

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups ditalini

1 1/2 cups frozen peas

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for passing at the table

Optional: Hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot sauce, to taste; see cook’s notes

1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

3 tablespoons minced fresh mint

Cook’s notes: I like to add a few drops of Frank’s RedHot sauce to the mix. It provides both needed acidity and subtle heat. Add a few drops and taste the broth. Add more if needed.

DIRECTIONS

1. In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, heat oil on medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, pancetta, salt, and pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and pancetta is just starting to very slightly brown, about 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Add broth and water and bring to a boil on high heat. Add pasta, stir, and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil gently, stirring frequently, until pasta is al dente (tender but with a little bite), about 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in peas (you don’t have to thaw them). Stir in cheese. Remove from heat.  If using, stir in hot sauce such as Frank’s RedHot. Taste and add more salt and/or pepper if needed. Stir in parsley and mint.

3. Ladle into bowls and provide more cheese at the table for optional garnishing.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.

Sometimes it’s very simple combinations of ingredients that wow the palate; a bowl of perfectly seasoned olives teamed with sliced salami; wedges of crisp sweet-tart apple paired with aged white cheddar; blanched greens sautéed with pancetta, garlic and red chili flakes. Or, a stunning “carpaccio” made with raw paper-thin zucchini slices, buttery extra-virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and toasted pine nuts. It’s a classic concoction with roots in the south of France.

The components, because there are so few, need to be perfect. The extra-virgin olive oil plays a crucial role; it needs to be aromatic and buttery, almost sweet. The zucchini needs to be thinly sliced, a mandoline is handy for this.

Zucchini Carpaccio

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 pound medium zucchini (diameter about the size of a quarter)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons shaved Parmigiano Reggiano

4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts; see cook’s notes

Cook’s notes: To toast pine nuts, place in small dry skillet on medium heat. Shake handle frequently to redistribute pine nuts, cooking until lightly browned. Watch carefully because they burn easily. Cool completely before use.

DIRECTIONS

1. Trim zucchini ends. Cut into paper-thin slices using a mandolin or vegetable peeler. Arrange the zucchini slices, slightly overlapping, on a large, flat platter. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

2. In a small bowl whisk the olive oil and lemon juice. Just before serving, whisk the olive oil dressing briefly to blend it, drizzle it over the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, scatter the cheese and the pine nuts on top, and serve.

Source: Pascal Lorange, former executive chef at the now shuttered Fig & Olive restaurant in Newport Beach

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.